Back to: Nokia Dismantle Instructions
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When dismantling any phone, great care should be taken to ensure that no damage is caused to any of the parts. Rough handling may result in severe damage of many parts, and if proper anti-static procedures are not followed, electrostatic damage may result in any electronic component.
Before commencing, it is recommended that the correct tools are purchased for the job in hand. At the very least, you will require a Torx T6 screwdriver. Do NOT attempt to use a small Allen key or filed down screwdriver, you will only damage the screws.
Step 1. We have used a cross between a V3688 and V50 in these photos to save some time and to show you one we prepared earlier!
Step 2. Ok, lets get stuck in! The first move is to REMOVE THE BATTERY! Next using our aerial removal tool, locate the small washer style connection at the base of your aerial. You will see two flat areas. This is where the aerial tool fits and use it as you would a spanner to loosen off the aerial.
Step 3. Having removed the aerial place the blue lens removal tool in the battery tray. Insert the small metal rod as shown in the RED square into the small hole and push forward as indicated by the arrow. This should push the lens cover proud as indicated by the RED circle, of the housing. SOMETIMES you may require to maintain a slight pressure on this for the next stage.
Step 4. Now using the lens removal tools pull the LED lens cover free. As indicated again in the RED circle. The GREEN square now shows the rod press fully inside the phone. This is not always necessary. It may take a couple of attempts to get the hang on this procedure.
Step 5. Next move, locate the 4 housing clips as indicated here in RED circles. These are fairly obvious when you look inside. We also show the battery contacts in the GREEN square, again in stock.
Step 6. The next stage can be a bit tricky and again takes a bit of practice but is simple enough. Having located the 4 clips (RED circles) insert the lever tool into the gap where the housings meet and lift up very slightly basically pushing the internal flap inwards. Slide it up the housing and locate the next clip doing likewise. You may now have to leave this tool inserted in this side of the housing to ensure it does not close again. Then repeat this process using the other lever on the other side.
Too much pressure with these tools will damage the housing edges.
Step 7. The rear housing lifts away from the top. Next step is one which needs very great care. We indicate the LCD attachment here in the RED circle. You need to very carefully remove the plastic retaining sticker, insert a lever and very carefully lift the flap. If you do this too hard the flap will fall off OR even worse break! If it falls off do not panic too much it can be replaced but they are very fragile! We also indicate the battery contacts clearly displayed in the GREEN circle.
Step 8. Ok almost finished with the base now. Lift the circuit board from the top again and it will pull out. Take care when placing this back as the volume buttons on the right may catch the rubber buttons. Make sure they are clear and working before putting on the back housing!!!
The red arrow roughly indicates where the phone 'ringer' is. It is on the under side of the board. Well that depends how you look at it I suppose! The ringer is on the same side as the keypad contacts.
Step 9. The last stage to get the phone into two parts! If you are not replacing the LCD but a speaker for example, TAKE CARE not to damage the LCD flat cable assembly which feeds through the hinge area! We have always found the best way to do this is just slightly (very slightly) bend the main housing as shown in the button photo. Then move the top flap slowly back and forwards and they will click free. The other side has the spring for closing the flap and does sometimes fall out! It can only go in the one way.
Step 10. When re assembling the phone assemble it as if the flap is open but in reverse now. Insert the LCD tail through the slot for it. You will again have to bend the base slightly BUT NOT TOO MUCH or you may damage it. Guide the spring side towards the hinge and it should click in place. If not try moving it slightly until it clicks in place. This can be a bit annoying if the end of the spring hinge have become worn or you have tried a few times as they will become 'frayed'. So the idea is to get these in 1st or 2nd time.
Step 11. Anyway, carrying on with the remainder of the dismantle. We find it best to start at the hinge. Insert the tool and prise as you did with the base. The clips should open up. The next photo shows you where these clips are located.
Too much pressure with these tools will damage the housing edges.
Step 12. Right a lot on this photo to take in! Starting with the actual lid of the housing. The PURPLE circles show where the 4 clips are that will require prising open. The BLUE circle are also clips but are better not prised open. Once you have the 4 PURPLE clips open place the lid on a flat surface. Press down on the tip of the lid, where the blue circles are and gentle rock the top back and forth. The 4 clips will one by one pop out. Take care at these stages. IF YOU BEND THE FRONT PART there is a danger you will break the thin chrome/silver flashing around the middle of the flap.
Step 13. REMOVING THE LID/LCD CONTINUED - Now to the left part. The LIGHT BLUE circle indicates the internal battery and the yellow dots are its solder points. The RED circle indicates the ear piece and the green dots the solder points. The GREEN circle indicates the soldered screen contact. DE-SOLDER THIS SCREEN CONTACT PRIOR TO REMOVING THE SCREEN! Although not indicated (because I forgot!) you will see a small piece of foam under the LCD cable assembly tail as it leaves the lid. This helps support the cable assembly and prevents it breaking.
Step 14. Excuse the fuzzy picture, I was getting excited as it's the last photo! The RED circle indicates where the LCD is to soldered the screen contact back. The PURPLE circle is the ringer contacts and the GREEN circle is the ear piece contacts. The SECOND photo shows the empty flap. The GREEN circles clip over the LCD to hold it in place and yes have to be prised off! The PURPLE circles locate the mounting of the LCD. The LIGHT BLUE square is the screen solder point.
Source: uselessinfo.org.uk
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