All pictures and text on this page has been kindly supplied by Mobile Spares. The pictures (and most of the text) are owned by Mobile Spares, and may not be reproduced without prior consent.
When dismantling any phone, great care should be taken to ensure that no damage is caused to any of the parts. Rough handling may result in severe damage of many parts, and if proper anti-static procedures are not followed, electrostatic damage may result in any electronic component.
Before commencing, it is recommended that the correct tools are purchased for the job in hand. At the very least, you will require a Torx T6 screwdriver. Do NOT attempt to use a small Allen key or filed down screwdriver, you will only damage the screws.
This phone is not difficult to dismantle other than removing the front & rear housings.
Step 1. First of all remove the fascia and the battery.
Step 2. Next comes the main screen removal. You will require a T6 driver. The screws are circled in red and we have defined a couple of other information points. The blue circle is the internal battery and the green circle is the earpiece.
Step 3. Now you have the 6 screws out the phone will come to bits! DO NOT turn it upside down just now as all the internal parts within the base will fall out! Remove this carefully as the LCD and frame is still connected to the circuit board!
Step 4. Now turn the board and LCD frame over and you will see a screen clip on either side as indicated here.
Step 5. These little clear clips simply clip off either side. The screen will now be apart from the circuit board. At this stage if you are replacing the entire screen just swap over and put the phone back together.
Step 6. If you are replacing the elastomer, this is within the yellow box indicated below. Simply pick the old one out and fit the new one. IT IS ADVISABLE NEVER to touch the new elastomer with your bare hands. Use the plastic glove supplied by us OR a pair of tweezers.
Step 7. A close up of the LCD frame. The red square is the elastomer, the red circle is the earpiece and the green square the rubber ringer cover. The ringer is situated on the main board and will be shown later on.
Step 8. At the base of the phone is this area which has various items within it. Green square is the SIM contacts, green circles are the housing side pillars, the blue square is the base connector, the red circle is the microphone and lastly the purple square is the vibration motor.
Step 9. OK there is quite a lot to see here! The red square is the ringer as mentioned 2 photos back. The red circle is the earpiece contacts, the green square is the elastomer/screen contacts, the green circle is the main on/off button, the white square are the two resistors which control the LED power and lastly the white circles are the 6 x screen LED's (LED = Light Emitting Diodes or lights).
Step 10. Next a HYPER close-up of the on/off switch. The red lines donate the 4 circuit board solder connections for the switch. Take great care when removing the switch.
NEVER FORCE IT.
Step 11. Now a close up of the two resistors which control the power to the LED's. The one in the red square controls the screen and the one in the green square controls the lighting on the keys. If changing your LED's to blue, you have the option of shorting these out, this will in turn make the overall lighting brighter.
ALWAYS TAKE CARE.
Step 12. Ok, now a close up of the aerial area. The red circle shows the aerial contact, the red square shows the battery connections and the green square shows the volume button contacts. All of these make contact with the circuit board when assembled.
Step 13. Now it's the turn of the volume buttons. The red line is indicating a little 'slot' on the keys. This slot faces towards the back of the phone when back in. The three red dots simply depicts the circuit board contacts, shown in the green box in the last photo.
Step 14. Ok, on closer inspection the button itself slips off the button contacts in the direction as shown. The red line again shows the 'slot'. The red circles are the volume buttons. These are some times the cause if the volume will only work one way, and lastly the red square is the circuit board contacts.
Step 15. When you have removed all the items from the base, you will be left with the rear housing button. To remove this, firstly remove both of the side posts. The top of the button spring will then simply lift out with a thin pair of pliers. The spring is shown in the light blue box.
Step 16. Next the battery contacts. These are spring loaded and can be removed in a similar manner to that of the 3310. Or simply hold the contacts from underneath and using the T6 driver simply push one flat, once they are all through the housing the block will fall loose. Note to put these back in simply line up and push in. They will spring out accordingly.
Step 17. This shows the other side of the battery contacts. If you hold it as such whilst pressing the battery connections down, it will ensure they do not spring back up. This takes practice!
Step 18. Next comes the SIM holder. This clips into the housing. The bar goes through the housing to the other side at the red boxes. They are clipped in place on the other side. You should be able to see the two clips on the other side as shown in the next photo.
Step 19. The red boxes show where the two SIM holder clips are held in place.
Step 20. Now to remove the aerial. Simply use a screw driver and lever it out. You may have to try it from different positions. DO NOT FORCE IT as it may damage the housing.
Step 21. This is a board for an 8250. This is very similar to the 8210 but you will note the red circles show 4 of the 6 keypad LED's. On the 8210 these site horizontal, on the 8250 they sit at a 45 degree angle. The gold circles are the keypad contact for the silver circles on the keypad membrane on the rear of the LCD frame.
Step 22. Ok, here are the parts you will have removed by now! It only leaves the LCD and frame. We have already crossed the elastomer thing so this is basically how to change glass only in the LCD and a couple of other points.
Step 23. NEVER force the earpiece out from the front! Use a sharp instrument to pick it out from behind. Take your time as it does take a few 'picks'.
Step 24. Behind the glass you will see three little holes on either side, shown in the red circles. These are where the Screen LED's fit into from the circuit board.
Step 25. Next is the internal battery. If you look at the rear of the LCD frame, on the left side around the middle you will see the battery, partially covered by the white keypad membrane. This just sits in there and is easily picked out.
Step 26. This photo shows some of the contact points which hold the LCD in the LCD frame. These do not all need to be opened to remove the glass and certainly not the ones in the red box. If you break these you will struggle to get it back together if at all!
Step 27. Ok this is the start of the LCD removal. WE STRONGLY URGE YOU to look at THE OTHER PHOTO BEFORE attempting this! Firstly pull back the keypad membrane from the top until the internal battery holder is visible and bend the entire frame in half. (front to front). The clear battery holder should come free and so should the base of the LCD area (the clear plastic rear housing behind the LCD).
Step 28. From the side the board should now look like this. All you need to do now is bend the clear plastic housing back a bit more and pull the old glass out. Before putting the new glass in remove the elastomer. Slip in the new glass and put the elastomer back. DONE!
Step 29. A bit out of order here but there is a reason! The removal of the Infra-red cover from the main housing. Simply push this from behind carefully. This is just clipped in place. The reason for this being last is we are having great problems getting stocks of these at present.
